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Balbinya Bilbunya and Toolina
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Balladonia
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915km
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Balladonia is the nearest fuel with limited supplies in the
area. Alternative starting points are Noresman and Esperance. The tracks can be
badly affected by rain which is not just confined to the winter months. The area is
quite remote and a high degree of self sufficiency is required. The western
access track to the beach run that takes you to the Baxter Cliffs is well past Wattle
Camp due to the encroaching weed build up along the coast.
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StreetSmart ® Travellers Atlas 9th Edition
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Map 107
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Grid Ref B / 5
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Toolina One of the northern entries off
the Eyre Highway begins about 85 km east of Balladonia. It lies at the eastern
end of a truck bay. From here you follow the track across flat terrain till you
come to the old water tank at BBT048. The sign will point you in the direction
of the continuing track that takes you to the coast.
As you travel towards the coast the track changes from gravel/clay to
sand and pockets of limestone. Access is uneventful in the dry though wet
weather will affect the clay sections of the track. The remains of an old well
can be seen in a vast clearing as you near the coast. It is only about 350m to the T
junction from the well.
Turn left (east) at the T junction and follow the track till you come to
another sign, pointing south. It is about 5km as the crow flies. Another
350m and you land at the Toolina parking area.
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Typical track BBT47
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Old Water Tank
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Typical track in the dry
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From Toolina you can follow the Old Telegraph Line back to
the Bilbunya Dunes and the Wylie Scarp where the cliffs meet the beach. There is
another track that does run along the top of the cliffs, though it consists of rough
limestone and may be hard on tyres etc. The Old Telegraph track follows the line
and remnants can be seen along the way. At times high winds will bring down
trees across the track. You will need an axe as the scrub is quite thick and driving
around may not be an option.
There are a couple of spots that enable a campsite along the track, BBT70
and BBT71. These are clearings with no amenities etc. BBT72 is an intersection
where the northern branch takes you back to the Eyre Highway (65km). BBT73 has a
track which entails dealing with a hill climb over a sand dune. The dunes
characteristics may change due to the wind etc. This track will take you to the
Head of Bight.
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BBT57 Well Ruins
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BBT60 Toolina Cove
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Dolphins in the surf
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Telegraph pole
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Old well near clearing at BBT71
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Bilbunya Dunes There are 2 recognised
campsites that lay on the track where the Wylie Scarp meets the cliffs. BBT76
which is the highest and quite an open area and one that is part way down, with
camping amongst the trees. There are 2 options of getting to Isralite Bay from
here. The first is to follow the original Telegraph track(BBT77) that starts
near the high camping ground. We travelled part way down this track once and to
put it simply its overgrown and will do some damage to your vehicle or stuff hanging
off it.
The second is the beach run from BBT78 to BBT80. There is about 32km
of beach to travel, it used to be about 60km but the buildup of the weed over the
years now extends well past Wattle Camp. An important coordinate to remember is
-33.080610 South and 124.168010 East as this is the exit off the beach.
If you take the beach it may be a good idea to check the tides prior to
going as the water will come right up to the dunes and there only a few spots where
you can get off the beach. The BOM has the tides listed here. At low tide it is an easy
drive.
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BBT74 From the top of the track
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Approaching storm and high tide
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Low tide
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Israelite Bay and Wattle Camp Once you
have left the beach and find your way to the mud flats it is pretty much easy going
along here. Wattle Camp is a sheltered spot that Professional Fisherman
use. The only time it does gets rough around here is if the weather has changed
for the worse and you get caught in it. The weather can come from the tradional
southerly direction or it can come from the north. The entire area from Wattle
Camp to the start of the gravel at Fisheries rd can get wet and muddy.
There are 2 points east(BBT100) and west(BBT101) that spilt the track in
two. Turning in a southerly direction at these points takes you towards the
coast. The coastal track only has a couple of small mud flats to tackle and is
generally a sandy track. The Telegraph track will travel across some big flats
that could be detrimental to your trip if you get caught in the weather. Some
mud flats between Wattle Camp and BBT100 may also have to be traversed around the
edges at times. There is also a decieving water hole at BBT102 that can be
bonnet depth. There are detours around it.Then again it could be 30 degrees with
a light easterly, you never know.
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In the dry
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In the wet
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BBT102 Water Hole
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Israelite Bay
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In the wet
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In the wet
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The two photos below were taken at the same spot 19 years
apart.
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BBT109 Taken about 1990 a couple of days after a storm
washed the track out. It went for about 500m
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BBT109 Taken in Jan 2009 showing the new track on the left.
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Balbinya The track (BBT084) to Balbinya
starts about 12km south of the intersection of Parmango rd and Balladonia
rd. From there it is about another 12km to the homestead(ruins). Balbinya
was estabilished in 1883 by John Paul Brooks and the building are still in a good
state of repair, being away from the coast.
From the homestead the track heads towards the eastern end of the cleared
land. Following it to the end brings you to a junction. At this point you
want to head in a southerly direction as there may be a track to the north that will
probably take you to Murtadinia Rock. This southerly track will take you to the
Wylie Scarp and then onto the Telegraph track just east of Wattle Camp.
The track is 75km in length from BBT084 to BBT082. About half way
along the track a wildfire had been through and made navigation quite difficult due
to the new growth and changing from clay tracks to sand. It would be wise to
load the track file into your GPS as this track is not on a map. It is also
quite a fatiguing drive with lock to lock steering the norm. It will take you
all afternoon to get to the campsite at the top of the Wylie Scarp as speed can be
limited to 10/15 kmh. The descent down the Scarp is very good and only a
slippery rock right at the top may have your vehicle breach slightly, Low Range
only.
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Balbinya Homestead
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Typical track
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Typical track(fire)
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The acsent does not look like much but judging by the star
pickets in the ground at the top there may be more to it than just driving up the
hill. Once at the bottom the track and terrain changes to sand and low scrub as
you approach the coast. Trees across the track are common, some are big.
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Wylie Scarp
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Steep descent
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Steep ascent
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